“For many, it’s the highlight of the town’s calendar. Some families live and breathe for Shrovetide,” says Richard Bott, an Ashbourne native who played the game for decades. “It’s almost a part of your DNA.”
Played traditionally on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday in the heart of the Derbyshire Dales, the Royal Shrovetide Football match features hundreds of players vying to move a ball toward goal posts that are three miles apart.
Locals navigate fences, muddy fields, and even the River Henmore in pursuit of victory. The game resembles rugby more than football, with a large leather ball tossed or pushed through a massive scrum known as “the hug.”
“The hug has a distinct smell. It’s a mix of sweat and beer,” Bott remarks. “And it used to be cigarettes, too, although not so much these days.”
The town divides into two teams: the Up’Ards and Down’Ards. Historians trace the origins of the Ashbourne game back to the mid-1600s, and the entire town serves as the playing field. The rules are simple, with one longstanding prohibition: no murder or manslaughter allowed.On Tuesday, most shops close early as locals gather at two meeting points to enjoy pre-game drinks, making it one of the busiest weeks for pubs.”This week keeps the pub going, probably for the whole year,” says Hayley Williams, a bartender at The White Swan.
Robyn Wright, a supporter of the Up’Ards, declares, “This game is a celebration of our town. It gets us through tough times.”
“While some women participate, most players are young men, some with the rugged appearance of seasoned rugby players. Many don camouflage pants and military boots, as if preparing for battle.
“Ask around, and 90% of people in Ashbourne would work Christmas to have Shrovetide off,” says Luke Massey, who couldn’t play this year due to injury. “It’s like our World Cup.”
As the game progresses through town on Tuesday, the ball intermittently rises above the sea of players. In the evening, Will Nash scores a crucial goal for the Up’Ards, celebrated with cheers and a procession back to the Green Man pub.
The game is set to continue on Wednesday, promising more exhilarating action and community spirit.
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