Be it watches, jewellery, accessories, or clothes, what is old is new, thanks to a focus on fashion’s wasteful ways. The retro is relevant. It’s often said that a vintage shopper rarely divulges their sources. But ET spoke to second-hand shoppers and specialists to reveal the secrets of vintage shopping.
WHAT IS VINTAGE?
“Vintage” is widely used in fashion to mean pre-loved, says fashion journalist and author Sujata Assomull: “Vintage clothing are pieces from the 1990s or before, and signify something about the time it lived in. Like an ’80s YSL jacket at the time of power dressing. Or a ’90s Abu and Sandeep piece that was about decadence. You buy a vintage piece because of its symbolism.” Stylist Rin Jajo says, “Now, the ’90s are the most distinguishable from our current time and anything from then and before can be considered vintage.”
Vintage usually refers to items that are at least 20-100 years old.
CALL OF NOSTALGIA
Ritwik Khanna, founder of Rkive City, a design house that works with vintage and deadstock textiles, is himself a vintage hunter. He says, “Vintage is central to how I engage with clothing. I look for pieces that carry a sense of history: archival military surplus, workwear and garments that showcase a particular era’s construction techniques.” He counts the 1960s Levi’s denim as his best find, sourced from a sorting facility in Kandla, Gujarat.
He adds, “Vintage forces you to engage differently. It teaches you about construction, fabric ageing and silhouettes that no longer exist.”
Houston-based former architect Amanpreet Birgisson says mass-produced, generic clothing bores her. “Style-wise, I am a lone wolf—fiercely independent and never following trends.” She looks for a unique item that offers quality, style, price—and vintage checks all the boxes.
TRUST YOUR GUT
Arti Sandhu, associate professor of fashion design at the School of Design in College of Design, Architecture, Art and Planning, University of Cincinnati, US, says, “There was a time I was really into vintage, often ’40s and ’70s, dresses.” A Comme des Garcons jacket from the 2000s and a Victorian quilted petticoat are her best finds. She says, “Trust is a hard-to-define concept. Something can be made to look old. Ultimately, it’s about how it feels to you.” Agrees Khanna: “Over time, you develop an instinct for spotting real versus reproduction by checking tags, understanding stitching and when material ageing looks natural.” In India, it’s about forming relationships with vendors and physically examining pieces.
CHAT WITH THE SELLER
Gokul M, a Bengaluru-based publicist for River EV, keeps a lookout for lapel pins, watches, sunglasses, porcelain ashtrays and more. Like most vintage shoppers, he counts the hunt as the most exciting part. He has trawled antique stores, flea markets and chor bazaars. He says, “Always chat with the seller and if you click they offer you things that are not on the shelf.”
JOIN A COMMUNITY
Rana advises to join a group of vintage buyers—online or offline. Agrees Gokul who hunted down an HMT Karthik through watch clubs: “With vintage watches, especially, the community is quite strong and have pages on social media.” Rana says they also list authentic sellers and tell how to spot fakes. Priyanka Rajwar, founder of Vayaka India, a sari studio in Bengaluru, shops for vintage saris through a few trusted social media communities.
TO BARGAIN OR NOT?
Sandhu says, “Bargaining in online spaces is hard but there are sites that ask you to make an offer.” Gokul is all for bargaining—at least in flea markets. “Shop with a poker face,” he says, “and compare prices online.”
Birgisson makes a counter offer only if she feels she’s being played. She says, “Indeed, part of the hook of vintage is getting something unusual at a great price. But that thrillseeking needs tempering with the value of the item.” Raman Chawla, founder of Samaaj Studio, which creates artisanal pieces from vintage textiles, says bargaining is fine in flea markets. “If a piece has minor wear or damage, or if you’re buying multiple items, a polite negotiation might work online too,” he says.
DEVELOP A VINTAGE MINDSET
Birgisson says vintage shopping is intuitive, there’s no method to madness. “I almost never shop for anything specific. I let the item reveal itself to me. Vintage shopping is a mindset.” Her vintage wardrobe is full of delightful finds: Turkmen Chirpy, a robe, bought many decades ago, a kora Banarasi sari, a French man’s sleeping shirt and more.
ONLINE VS OFFLINE
Sujata Newar, Shillong-based founder of The Local Vintage, grew up shopping for vintage. She says, “Instagram shops are a great way to shop vintage in India. However, you have to be cautious while navigating the numerous thrift shops on the platform. Always read reviews, verify the store’s authenticity and be mindful of potential scams.”
Khanna says while there’s a tradition of passing down heirloom fabrics, the idea of second-hand clothing as valuable rather than disposable is still evolving. His advice: “A mix of online and offline shopping is key. But some of the best finds are still offline, like in export-surplus markets, old tailoring shops, even industrial warehouses where deadstock fabric sits untouched.” Be patient and research.
SHOP IN PERSON
Rajwar prefers shopping in person because one can find rare items in old markets, like a silver chain she found in a shop in Landour. Her advice is to visit old jewellery shops and ask for pieces that are about to be melted. She says, “One cannot be sure about the authenticity online—at least with jewellery.” Offline, you can also check for flaws.
CHOOSE TIMELESSNESS
Always question your purchases. Birgisson shares her checklist, “Craftsmanship and material will be the first thing to look for. Well-made clothes serve well. Versatility is also important. I almost never go for whimsy.”
DIG IN
Chawla says one of his best vintage finds is an Arc’teryx jacket he picked up for just `150 at the Majnu Ka Tila market in Delhi. It typically retails for $600-800. “I spotted it in a pile of jackets on one of my thrift trips. Recognising the logo and quality, I knew immediately it was a great piece.”
QUALITY CHECKS
Chawla shares his quality checks: “Check the hardware—high-end designer garments often come with high-quality zippers and buttons that are branded with their logos. This is usually a reliable indicator of authenticity. Checking fabric quality, stitching and interior labels is also crucial.” Aparna Balaji, risk consulting, EY, says there is a checklist one can follow. For saris, she advises looking for weave and craftsmanship, as handwoven saris have slight imperfections, and checking the texture and zari colour (real ones will show oxidisation). She says, “If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is because vintage silk saris in good condition are never dirt-cheap.” She also likes to smell it—as old silk and cotton have a distinct, rich smell.
LOOK IN YOUR CLOSET
Jajo says the best way to start is by looking in the closets of your parents and grandparents. He adds, “Since people didn’t shop as often as we do now, clothes were meant to last.”
