The jhola, the formless, traditional Indian shoulder bag, has its roots in the everyday life and culture of the country. The sack-like bag, made of natural materials like jute, khadi and cotton, with nearly no embellishments except a sturdy sling, has been lugged across centuries, regions and cultures.
The handbag has always been a hero segment in the world of luxury fashion. It’s a statement-making piece, a status symbol and a personal-style calling card. Every luxury house has its own “it” bag. The desi sling bag may not have entered the modern-day bag hall of fame but it’s well on its way to get a contemporary facelift—reimagined as a weekender, a work bag or a gym bag.
EVERYTHING BAG
The Kolkata-based conscious bag brand The Burlap People (TBP) has turned its lens on the jhola and the striped bazaar bags. Samriddh Burman, cofounder, TBP, says, “The ‘baajaar bags’ were woven using synthetic threads in striped patterns and are part of every household in Bengal.” True to their ethos of working with sustainably sourced materials, they recreated these iconic bags in biodegradable jute. The bags are handcrafted and hand screen-printed and start at Rs 4,000.
Like TBP’s makeover of bazaar bags, Sekhar has worked with the wire koodai. A staple of Tamil Nadu, it is more than a market bag. “Farmers carry their lunch in it, workers take it to their jobs and households rely on it for its durability,” says Chennai-based Sekhar. She sold these bags on Instagram in 2021. She adds, “Today, the wire koodai is having its moment again, with endless new designs and innovations.”Each region has its own version of the carry all—from the Naga and Manipuri jholas that carry tribal colours and motifs to the “thol sanchi” of Kerala and the embellished Kutchi bag. Now, brands are trying to add a with-it twist. Frankly Wearing uses Bollywood references or quips like “Kaleshi Aurat”, while Tamarind Chutney has a bag proclaiming, “Girls just wanna have fun-damental rights”.Gautam Sinha of artisanal leather brand Nappa Dori says the tote has become like a calling card, a social muscle, if you will. He says, “Totes are making a comeback and not just for fashion brands. A lot of resorts, hotels, clubs and cafés are producing totes as a status symbol. It gives an in into a person’s lifestyle.” Sinha plans to launch totes for his F&B outlet, Café Dori. In fact, Nappa Dori rebranded its Dori tote, which retails at Rs 3,650, five months ago and it is their bestseller.
He adds, “It’s an af hose who want to fordable option for buy into the brand.” Sinha says the bag ranks high on usability and functionality with its size, straps, zipper pockets and colours. Burman says jhola works well with TBP’s principles. “Just like the jhola, our design ticks all three boxes of functionality, durability and sustainability.” They have given the totes a reinforced base by adding repurposed leather and inside lining and functionalities like pockets and zips. He says, “A jhola should be easy to carry, take the shape of whatever you stuff in it and should feel fluid.”
Functionality is the cornerstone of the jhola bag, says Nidhi Singh and Apoorv Jain of Delhi-based creative studio Living Waters. The 12-year-old design house ventured into products in 2020 and one of their first pieces were the totes. Singh says, “When we were art students, jholas were our best friends. But we realised that even as fashions changed, the jhola didn’t.” The duo decided to brainstorm on a modern-day jhola. They added waterproof lining, inside pockets, back pouch for thingamajigs, a separate pouch and made sure it was able to bear weight. Jain adds, “We even added backstraps to convert it into a backpack but that didn’t stick with our clientele which is mainly working women and college students.” Living Waters’ totes are priced at Rs 1,555. Both Jain and Singh want the jhola to become the go-to bag for most and feel that quirky designs add a special touch.
The bag is the canvas, according to Motherland that packages Indian heritage for younger millennials and Gen Z. With minimalistic and culture-specific designs, it has given the jhola a contemporary identity. It hasn’t really reengineered the bag other than adding an inside pocket. The bags start at Rs 500 and are made with twill cotton. Their spokesperson says the totes further their agenda of promoting local talent.
Symbolism has always been part of the jhola. As Vritti Pasricha, director, product design and development, Vritti Designs, Mumbai, says, “The jhola, to us, is more than just a bag; it’s a symbol of Indian heritage and simplicity.” Their jholas start at Rs 650. Pasricha says that while jholas are versatile, they often lack organisation, so she added internal pockets, sturdy handles, zippers and a structured base.
She says, “The idea was to ensure it remains relevant for today’s lifestyle.” The sustainable aspect of the jhola is what appealed to Praveen Premkumar and Priyanka Parswani, cofounders of No More—The Zero Waste Brand, to create their version of upcycled totes. They use pre- and post-consumer waste for their bags. Parswani says their brand narrative of sustainability and mindfulness drives their design philosophy: “When we launched, we thought Gen Z would be our consumer base, but our current clientele is the younger millennials (30-45 years).” Their totes start at Rs 2,050. Their bestseller is a shoulder bag for Rs 4,850 made from upcycled fabric remnants. Her advice: “While picking a bag, look for functionality. If it’s something you will use daily, think of it as an investment. If your bag or T-shirt is cheaper than your cup of coffee, there’s something wrong with the production cycle.” The brand also offers lifetime repairs. Pasricha says the jholas and jute bags are the perfect summer companions as they are lightweight, breathable and eco-friendly.
The styling possibilities of jholas excite fashion stylist and brand image consultant Rishi Raj. He says, “A quirky, printed jhola works beautifully with neutral, well-fitted clothes like a linen shirt and jeans, a cotton dress or even an easy kurta set.” The key is balance: if the jhola is loud, keep the outfit subtle. He adds, “It’s also best to avoid using overly worn-out or shapeless versions.”
His jhola checklist: choose a tote that holds its shape well, is made from quality canvas, khadi or jute and pay attention to the stitching, lining and handle length that determine longevity and comfort. A summer-ready tote should feel light and breathable. Think natural fibres, colours like off-white, indigo, soft yellows or even handblock motifs. The tote is trendy again.
